Thursday, July 29 - The Last Day!

After a night out on the town, Wednesday evening in Tel Aviv, the group voted unanimously to spend Thursday morning exploring the city on their own. Some slept in, some hit the beach (thankfully the jellyfish had moved on!), and others went shopping. We all gathered after lunch to board the bus and head out for our last day of touring.

Our first stop was Independence Hall, where David Ben Gurion declared the establishment of the State of Israel on May 14, 1948. Seated comfortably in the air-conditioned home of former Tel Aviv mayor, Meir Dizengoff, we watched a brief film connecting the birth of the first Hebrew city to the culmination of the Zionist vision of Theodor Herzl. We then joined a few other groups in the main hall - decked out with the original furniture and paintings - for a passionate retelling of the events that fateful day 62 years

ago. Ben Gurion's recorded voice echoed 'round the room as he read from the declaration, the rabbi tearfully blessed the shehecheyanu, and we all stood for the orchestra's rendition of Hatikva. I've been there on more than a hundred occasions, but it gets me every time.

Once again on the bus, we zipped across town to the northern edge of Tel Aviv, where we first refueled (and some offered a mournful caffeinated goodbye) at the university's branch of Aroma. Then on to the Palmach Museum, a hi-tech story of 10 young men and women who join the ranks of the Hagana's "strike force", many of them eventually paying with their life to defend the Jewish communities of Palestine in the years leading up to statehood. Another fairly emotional (but a wee bit less patriotic) ending to one more chapter of the fantastic story called Zionism.

With the numerous narratives neatly tucked away, we returned to the hotel to grab our luggage, check out, and make our way to dinner at Lilith, a high class restaurant with a social justice message. The folks at Lilith not only pride themselves on excellent food, but also on their outreach to and training of local youth-at-risk, who are brought into the kitchen for 1-2 years of skill acquisition, confidence building, and purpose. Judging by my vegetarian dish, they've clearly learned the right stuff! We also dedicated some time to share a few final thoughts - "ouch" moments and take-home memories - followed by thank-yous and, of course, a bissel of text to round out this stage of the PJC Israel experience. May you all remember the altar you've built on this side of the Jordan, to serve as a witness between your children and our children - so long as you maintain it, nourish it, maybe even pay it a visit once in blue moon - so that no one side may ever claim to have more of a stake in God, our history, tradition, or the future of the Jewish people. Amen!

I'd like to take advantage of being asked to author this final post to say thanks to all of you for welcoming me into the PJC family and really making me feel at home. It was truly a pleasure to share with y'all my love of the Land of Israel

- and even more so to watch you gobble it all up! I wish you an easy landing back into your regular routines, along with much nachas sharing your unforgettable stories and photos (and scars!) with friends and family.

With love from Jerusalem,

Jared

jared at pobox.com

Wednesday, July 28 - Tzippori to Tel Aviv

On Wednesday, we were treated to a tour of a famous archeological site, Tzippori. We started the journey at the Roman theater, where we learned about the shaping of the early Talmud through everyday conundrums for the Rabbis. Can an observant Jew go to a Roman theater? The Rabbis created the grand Jewish tradition of positive argument based on everyday problems posed by their congregations. We got a great lesson on this conflict of Roman and Jewish values from the younger portion of our group, who acted out several advertisements, one for a very multicultural city, and one for a thriving Jewish city. Both were Tzippori! We saw firsthand how Jewish influences and Roman culture overlapped in a semi-restored Roman reception room. The mosaics included the famous Mona Lisa of the Galilee (pictured).

After visiting a synagogue with Roman style mosaics it was time to go, and this time we were headed for a Druze village, Dalyat al Karmel. The Druze are famous for their hospitality and we were treated to this firsthand as we enjoyed a varied delicious lunch while learning about Druze culture. Just when we had finished with the delicious plates of food and were ready to leave, we were surprised by a traditional Druze musician who had come to play for us. We learned about the traditional Druze dances and instruments, before having to say goodbye.

We then made our way to Tel Aviv, the most vibrant and happening place in Israel. When we arrived, we did not jump into the cosmopolitan excitements of the city; rather we toured the neighboring city of Jaffa, visiting its older sections. We navigated tight alleyways and visited old sites such as a wishing bridge. The day closed with a lesson about the history of Tel Aviv and a story about its founding, then we enjoyed a free evening in the city. I feel that this was one of our most exciting days!

Daniel Hovaness

Monday July 26

So first let us say what a great trip this has been so far. We love the group. What a bright, fun loving bunch, up for everything - and up is the operative word.

While traveling to a Bedouin encampment, Jared got a call telling him that there were tickets available for David Broza, a very popular Israeli singer, for a concert at Masada to begin at 3:30 AM the next morning. A wonderful coincidence since we were planning to climb up Masada that morning at 5:30 AM.

So our day starts at 2:30AM as 16 of us rise from our mats on the floor of our group Bedouin tent, gather our water, hats and backpacks. Get into four waiting cabs and head for Masada. What a beautiful morning, a full moon looked down on us as we drove over the hills to Masada. The air was fresh.

For two hours we listen to fantastic music with a light show playing on the steep walls of Masada, with the younger kids sleeping in their parents' arms and all of us enthusiastically clapping with the guitar and band music. We all plan on buying a CD of his as soon as we can.

We then join the rest of the group for the hike up the western slope, "the Roman Ramp" to the top where we watched the sun rise together and pray the morning prayers. Actually since Ginny and I are a little height phobic, our praying actually started on the way up! With the sun now above the horizon and the temperature rising steadily, we begin to move about as we learn the history of Masada, with stops at Herod's palace and the Roman baths.

As we look down, or in my case, peer down, we can see the places where the Romans encamped as they first tried to wait out the zealots who had fled Jerusalem during the Great Revolt.

Best of all for me is the way Jared,our guide, gives us a nuanced view of the history. This was no good guys-bad guys drama. Jared tells us how the Zealots would not hesitate to kill those who disagreed with them or even those who had stuff that they needed. We then shift into a discussion of the imagery of Masada and how the symbolism has been used and is changing in Israeli society.

It's this back and forth historical modern perspective while seeing it all before our eyes, which is one of the things that is making this trip so fascinating.

Our days have been jam packed.This day has been no exception. So I just want to mention the delight of being under a water fall at Ein Gedi and the wackiness of spreading mud all over us and jumping into the Yom Hamelech (the great salt sea). Yes it has been only one day. I write this on the bus as we head north to Kibbutz Nof Ginnosar and what we hear will be a good meal but most importantly a good night's sleep.

Jerry Lanoil

Tuesday, July 27 - In the Galilee and Golan

After a good night’s sleep at Kibbutz Nof Ginnosar on the Kinneret, our day began in the mystical city of Tzfat (also spelled Tzefat, Tsfat, Zfat, Zefat, Sfat, Sefat, Safed, Safes, and Safad).

Tzfat is most famous as being the birthplace of Tali Aldouby-Schuck! Jared taught us that Tzfat was important in the life of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, a strong critic of the Romans, who legend says fled to a cave to hide with his son where they buried themselves up to their necks in sand and studied Torah all day for 13 years. In addition, many important Spanish religious leaders and mystics came to Tzfat in the 16^th Century following expulsion from Spain, and Tzfat was home to Rabbi Isaac Luria, considered the father of Kabbalah.

Rabbi Schuck taught us about the Kabbalistic belief of Tsim Tsum, how G-d contracted G-d’s self in order to create the world. He taught how humans can perform Tsim Tsum as part of Tikun Olam, where we contract ourselves in order to make space for others. The group shared a very powerful silence and moment of self-reflection.

After the heavy spiritual lifting, it was time for shopping. Most people took advantage of Tzfat’s artistic community to buy art, Judaica and gifts.

This afternoon was mostly about water. In the Galilee and the Golan, water is about both natural beauty and limited natural resources. First we experienced the beauty. For us, it has been most amazing to hike, swim, feel, smell, taste and just be in Eretz Yisrael. Most of the group hiked in the Hatzbani River, through rushing streams and over rocks. It was quite beautiful, but also physically challenging, and everyone in the group has been left with their own impressions. Next, we travelled downstream, literally, to the Jordan River where we launched rafts and floated and paddled down the river.

As the day was getting late, a planned ascent of the Golan to some old Syrian bunkers was turned into a bus-ride discussion. We learned that The Hatzbani, The Dan and The Banias Rivers merge to form the Jordan which runs into the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee), Israel’s main source of fresh water. The springs where the water originates are all right along Israel’s border with Lebanon and Syria. Being in this place, it is easy to understand how access to a life or death resource such as fresh water has been the source of conflict. We learned the story of Kamal Amin Ta’abet, the alias of Israel’s most famous spy, Eli Cohen. Eli Cohen infiltrated the upper reaches of the Syrian government in the early 1960’s and provided valuable intelligence that the Syrians were attempting to divert Israel’s water supply. This allowed the Israeli Air Force to bomb the Syrian project and disrupt the plan. Eli also got the Syrians to plant eucalyptus trees to hide their military fortifications from Israel. He was captured and hanged by the Syrians in 1965. From 1948-1967, Syria was able to harass and fire upon Israelis living in the northern Galilee from the Golan Heights. In the 1967 War, two years after Eli Cohen’s death, Israel was able to capture the Golan Heights in two days, partly due to the intelligence provided by Eli Cohen and the known location of the Syrian fortifications (which were under the eucalyptus trees).

All in all, this was another amazing day in Israel that filled us with natural wonder, spirituality and geo-politics.

The Collens Family

Sunday July 25

We left early and drove into the Negev Desert. Our first stop was for a desert hike. We hiked up a trail built into the side of the hill. The views were sensational. It has a sculptured look to it with dramatic views all carved out of limestone. Not sure if our guides tell this to all the groups but they said we got up to the top the fastest of the groups they've had. Hiking in the desert was invigorating and the kids all did great.

Then it was on to Ben Gurion's grave. His dream was that millions of Jews would settle the desert. When he was travelling across the desert he saw a small group of youngsters starting a settlement, so when he retired, he joined the small kibbutz that they were building right around the ridge where ancient Canaan started.

We had lunch in Yerucham where Avinoam's sister Ilana lives. It's a small town settled by Moroccan Jews and gave us a very different perspective on Israel. Our most memorable moments have been the times we have spent with local Israelis, and meeting Ilana and the woman who made us lunch was inspiring. Ilana ended up here as part of a program to encourage young people to come to Yerucham and stay so they could improve things. She married a Moroccan Jew and loves her community. She was very enthusiastic to have us visit. We had lunch in the home of Mesuda, a woman who made aliyah in 1963. Her family had all of two months to leave Morocco after the king decided to allow them to emigrate, which ended with someone knocking on her family's door and telling them to throw what they could into a suitcase and come before the opportunity passed. She said she has had a hard life in this desert town raising 11 children by herself as her husband died in his 30's but she has been very happy. She has felt safe here which they never felt in Morocco.

We ended the day in a Bedouin village. We went on a camel ride which the kids really enjoyed. A Bedouin showed us how they make their coffee and demonstrated how you can grind with different rhythms and make music, which the kids had a chance to participate in. We had a scrumptious dinner sitting Bedouin-style on the floor.

We ended the day with Rabbi Schuck leading us in a desert experience as many religious experiences have arisen in the desert starting with Abraham and Moses. We had a chance to sit quietly by ourselves and experience the desert at sunset.

Can you then imagine all of us sleeping in one great big tent on slim mattresses under the bright moon and stars?

Cary and Mark Hochberg

Friday July 23

Friday in Jerusalem is all about preparation for Shabbat. We began our day at Har Herzl, starting with a very creative multimedia experience about the life of Theodor Herzl. We continued on to the graves of some important Israelis - like Itzhak Rabin and Golda Meir. We then moved on to the military cemetery, as Jared spoke about the various wars - 1948, 1967, 1973 - that led to the development of the Jewish state and resulted in the sacrifice of life represented in the cemetery. Jared wove a very interesting narrative throughout about the development of the Israeli identity.

Then... on to the shuk to eat an amazing Iraqi lunch and to buy items for Shabbat lunch....cheeses, veggies, fruit, nuts, bread, cookies.... all found and purchased in the teeming aisles of the shuk.

After an afternoon rest, the group split up and attended Kabbalat Shabbat services at two different shuls. The one we attended featured a sheer mehitza, enthusiastic singing and a service led alternately by a man and a woman. It was interestingly similar to the Kabbalat Shabbat service we hold at the PJC and consquently helped us to feel a connection to fellow congregants in the shul -- and to Israel. When we got back to the hotel, we enjoyed a Shabbat meal all together. Shabbat Shalom.

Andrea and Peter Rothberg

N.B. We are sharing our hotel with a lovely group from Maryland. Their dining table was next to ours, and after dinner they began to bench and the PJC joined in, singing along and drumming on the dinner table.

Wednesday July 21

Surprise! We were joined by Hildy and Steve Martin.
Our day began on a serious note with the “seamline” tour which highlighted the differences in the development of East and West neighborhoods. We stopped to see the actual “wallfencebarrier” between the East and West which is big, gray and imposing. It set the tone for the morning.
Our next stop was Elazar, a Jewish settlement in the West Bank. We met Elaine and Ted Silvetsky, sister and brother-in-law of our own Morris Stampfer. In 1972, Ted and Elaine were among the 11 founding families of Elazar. Ted took us on a tour of the community, which is now large and international, with neat homes, lawns, gardens and over 800 children. Seventeen of the children are their grandchildren. Ted spoke of his concern for the future of Elazar and all the settlements in the West Bank because of the restrictions on expansion.
We next went to meet Elias, a friend and colleague of Jared, our tour leader. He is a Palestinian Christian, and the wall has limited his ability to conduct business (tours) or to travel for pleasure. He spoke as an individual, not as a community representative. In his opinion, conditions and the relationship between East and West have never been worse.
A quick lunch, a change of tone, and we were off to meet Avinoam and Havi. They live in the Judean desert town of Alon. After happy hellos and hugs we hiked down a big hill to a natural spring which created lovely swimming pools – in the desert! What fun cooling off and relaxing in this awesome place. But we weren’t done yet!
Danny, Avinoam’s brother, is the rabbi in Alon. He has also established a program for returning Israeli soldiers to help them connect with Judaism.
The last stop was Avinoam and Havi’s beautiful mountaintop home in Alon. This town is populated by both religious and secular Jews, a new concept. After a delicious meal and some singing it was time to head back to Jerusalem. The end of another fabulous day.

- Susan Perrotti